The eating place is in Boerum Hill, Brooklyn, however its pink signal was once painted by way of hand on Mag Side road in New Orleans. Within, a golden soccer helmet with a fleur-de-lis overlooks portraits of Napoleon, hand thrust within waistcoat, and the blues pianist James Booker, known as the Bayou Maharajah, in eye patch and halo.
The menu is lit on a marquee, with baggage of Zapp’s Voodoo Potato Chips dangling beneath. Diners drink Abita root beer or espresso brewed with chicory, tasting of roasted earth. Every desk is about with Crystal sizzling sauce, whose element record places cayenne the place it must be: first.
Mr. Lathan grew up at the Gulf Coast of Alabama, in Creole nation; his industry spouse, Clay Boulware, comes from Cajun central Louisiana. As soon as roommates at Louisiana State College, they reunited in New York a couple of years in the past to redress the town’s shortage of gumbo, promoting the dish at outside meals markets ahead of opening the eating place in early December.
Some say gumbo is much less realized than inherited. Mr. Lathan were given his starter recipe from his great-grandmother Nanny, who handed it all the way down to his father. It starts with a roux of canola oil and flour cooked simply in need of overall darkness and fused with onion, celery and bell pepper.
His Cajun gumbo speaks in smoke, leached from andouille sausage made by way of a Louisiana butcher. The beef is browned till its edges crisp, then wedded with hen poached in house-made bone inventory. Damaged-down okra is helping thicken it, such a lot that it nearly tugs again the spoon. The result’s dense and…