In Spain, a Eating place Reimagines the Famed El Bulli

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The primary of six areas diners at Enigma move thru all through a eating revel in of a few 40 dishes lasting 3 hours.

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Myriam Meloni for The New York Occasions

Having opened seven eating places in 8 years, Albert Adrià didn’t wish to open any other.

Mr. Adrià, 47, has explored the intersection of recent Spanish delicacies and different traditions greater than possibly another chef. 5 of his eating places are in the similar group right here, developing a type of culinary theme park that lures some 100,000 diners — part of them foreigners — in a 12 months.

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Albert Adrià was once the pastry chef at El Bulli for 23 years. He says Enigma is its religious successor.

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Myriam Meloni for The New York Occasions

However the spirit of El Bulli demanded to be heard. That trailblazing modernist outpost at the Costa Brava of Catalonia closed in 2011, leaving at the back of a legacy as probably the most international’s maximum influential eating places. Mr. Adrià was once El Bulli’s pastry chef, and he labored there for 23 years along his brother, Ferran Adrià, its ingenious drive.

So Albert Adrià had the whole lot he wanted — the revel in, the desire and the audacity — to revisit El Bulli. The result’s Enigma, which opened in January now not as a new edition of El Bulli, however as an try to reimagine it on his personal phrases.

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The open kitchen of Enigma. The eating place serves 24 other people at a time for $235 each and every, with the exception of beverages.

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Myriam Meloni for The New York Occasions

“That is…

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