New Beaujolais, however Now not Nouveau

As the recognition of best manufacturers has risen, so have costs. My former colleague Frank J. Prial, who coated wine for The Occasions for greater than 3 a long time, beloved just right Beaujolais but used to be appalled through the perception of a $20 bottle. I incessantly marvel what he would suppose now that high cuvées are going for $50 or extra.

Virtually all of the consideration paid to the Beaujolais revival has centered at the so-called crus, the 10 appellations within the hilly northern a part of the area that don’t seem to be most effective considered able to making the most productive wines, but in addition be offering probably the most unique terroirs. Their names on my own — Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly, Chénas, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Juliénas, Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Régnié and St.-Amour — encourage mouthwatering thirst.

However the crus account for just a small quantity of the area’s manufacturing. What of the 2 appellations, Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages, which can be thought to be decrease at the area’s high quality ladder however provide maximum of its manufacturing? Have they been bypassed through the revolution that has lifted the crus?

The wine panel determined to determine. We not too long ago tasted 20 bottles of simple Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages from the 2015 antique. For the tasting, Florence Fabricant and I had been joined through Kimberly Prokoshyn, the pinnacle sommelier at Rebelle in NoLIta, and Michael Madrigale, a former head sommelier at Bar Boulud who’s now operating as a wine advisor.

Despite the fact that we lumped in combination Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages, they’re actually rather other. All the area contains a slim, approximate rectangle stretching about 34 miles from northwest of the town of Lyon on its southern finish to the Mâconnais within the…

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