Greater than the ones different eating places, considered one of which has closed, Sahib darts round India. Mr. Natarajan, who labored because the consulting chef, arranged the menu round dishes he has been accumulating in India whilst researching a cookbook. He isn’t seeking to be encyclopedic, and the menu displays that; it can pay just a little little bit of consideration to a number of areas and ignores others fully. This makes it laborious to get a company sense of anyone regional taste, however simple to revel in a number of dishes you could have by no means observed sooner than.
This may occasionally also be true for Indians. Goans would possibly now not acknowledge Sahib’s glorious mix of fried eggplant stirred right into a smoky mash of eggplant that has been softened in a tandoor; the dish, simplest casually spiced, comes from the northern town of Varanasi, at the Ganges.
Potatoes are stewed far and wide India, however Sahib’s dum olav is also new to people who aren’t from Kashmir. Little spherical potatoes are stabbed with a toothpick first so they’re going to select up extra of the sauce they’re cooked in: yogurt seasoned with tamarind, cardamom and Kashmiri chiles. The sauce wins its arguments thru persuasion slightly than power, partially as it has no tomatoes or onions.
To look what a distinction leaving them out could make, take a look at the rogan josh. In the event you’ve had this Kashmiri lamb dish at different native Indian eating places, you almost certainly call to mind rogan josh as a bulldozer of a dish, extra robust than swish. Likelihood is that onions and tomatoes have been the bottom flooring on which the thick brown gravy used to be constructed. At Sahib, the sauce is creamier and delicate sufficient that the style of saffron doesn’t get misplaced, and I discovered myself in reality taking note of the flavors — a brand new revel in in the case of…