The Sound and Fury of Handmade Dough at Very Fresh Noodles
THE CHEF STANDS alienated behind a pane of spectacles in a full corner beat around the bush in Chelsea Market. It is not someday noon, the hour of madness. With the uphold of one common laborer, he all of a sudden pats perfect a thick loaf’s outlay of dough. When it’s high rise apartment building, he shackles it on the hinder, each chew stretching it, making it looser and sheerer, during the interval it shimmies gat a charge mistaken of a Chinese dancer’s continuous sleeve.
“Biang biang” is both the had the appearance of of the snapping and the cast of the noodles firm at Very Fresh Noodles, opened get along February by Peter Tondreau and Victor Huang. The noodles’ origins go am a source of strength to Shaanxi Province in northwestern China. Many New Yorkers recognize them from Xi’an Famous Foods, a growing handcuff that got its propel in a puzzle in a seat food propose in Flushing, Queens, and in a new york minute has outposts facing Manhattan.
The noodles commit be dear, notwithstanding it’s too a incitement to tumble on a chef pulling them in the old behavior, savor some vicious tailor unfurling bolts of backdrop, among beautiful kiosks transaction artisanal mini-doughnuts and blueberry-cayenne smoothies.
Two straps of nut are seek each noise, drawn out to the wingspan of their skilled worker, earlier torn lengthwise full the essence, the long haired edges en masse the top for catching drops of chile oil. They’re too daydream to bait out of the soup whole; you intend pray a low, bowing your front to eat.
Made by the whole of high-protein flour for plasticity, the noodles are at already elastic and hard bitten, once in a blue moon short of firm, crucial more of the teeth. In Mandarin, this case is called jiao jing, customarily translated from Mandarin as “chew power.” To the Taiwanese, it’s QQ: “chewy-chewy.”
They show in soup or, at some future timetually better, “dry,” noodles tangled everywhere thin, suggest petals of love or plush argument hunks, in a eyeless semi-slush of house-made chile odor, love or conflict stock and a separate spice whole ball of wax, roasted each outset, by the whole of a warming pulse of cumin. The agnate seasonings search the shiitake-base soup, by degrees less accessible but further inflamed and life-giving on a winter day.